The Lighting Guide.
A working specifier's reference to LED strip lighting — written for the people who design, install and approve it.
Understanding CRI & TLCI
CRI (Color Rendering Index) measures how accurately a light source reveals the true colors of objects, on a 0–100 scale relative to daylight.
For residential and commercial spec work, 90+ CRI is the floor. For galleries, retail, and any space where color accuracy is critical (skin tones, fabric, food, art), insist on 95+ CRI with an R9 value above 50 — R9 specifically measures saturated reds, the color most often missing from cheap LED.
TLCI (Television Lighting Consistency Index) is the equivalent for video and broadcast and matters when LED strips appear on camera.
Higher CRI reveals truer saturation across reds, greens and blues.
CCT, Tunable White & Dim-to-Warm
Color temperature, measured in Kelvin, describes the warmth or coolness of white light.
- 1800–2200K — candlelight, hospitality after dark
- 2700K — warm residential, hospitality
- 3000K — standard residential / commercial spec
- 4000K — neutral, retail, kitchens, offices
- 5000–6500K — daylight, task, clinical, workshop
Tunable white strips shift across the range on demand — circadian-tuned for residential and hospitality. Dim-to-warm strips shift toward 1800K as they dim, emulating the warm decay of incandescent.
IP Ratings: Where to Use What
The IP (Ingress Protection) rating defines what a strip can survive. The first digit covers solids; the second, water. For LED strips you read the second digit.
| Rating | Where |
|---|---|
| IP20 | Indoor, dry only |
| IP54 | Damp / splash-protected |
| IP65 | Outdoor, protected |
| IP67 | Outdoor, unprotected |
| IP68 | Continuous immersion |
Rule of thumb: indoor dry = IP20; bathroom / kitchen splash = IP54; covered outdoor = IP65; exposed outdoor = IP67; pool / fountain = IP68.
COB vs SMD
Dot-free continuous light
- ·Hundreds of micro-LEDs on a phosphor strip
- ·No visible hot spots, even up close
- ·Ideal for shadow gaps and shallow channels
- ·Higher density, higher lumen output per foot
Discrete, high-performance chips
- ·Individual LED packages (2835, 3528, 5050)
- ·Easier to achieve very high CRI / R9
- ·Best when diffused behind a frosted lens
- ·Required for RGB, RGBW and addressable
Choosing the Right Profile & Diffuser
The profile (channel) and diffuser are what turn a strip into architecture. They protect the strip, sink heat, and — critically — hide the individual LEDs.
- Surface — mounts on the face of millwork or ceiling
- Recessed — flush in drywall or millwork with a flange
- Trimless — plaster-in for a seamless slot of light
- Corner (45°) — coves, under-cabinet, toe-kick
- Suspended — linear pendants with up/down output
Powering Your LED Strips
LED strips run on low-voltage DC (12V or 24V). 24V is preferred for nearly all installations — longer runs, lower current, less voltage drop.
Sizing a driver: the 80% rule
Never load a driver above 80% of its rated wattage. A 100W driver should handle no more than 80W of strip. This keeps heat down and extends the life of the supply.
strip load ÷ 0.80 = minimum driver wattage
Voltage drop
On runs longer than ~32 ft, voltage drops along the strip and the far end dims and shifts cooler. Solve by powering from both ends, injecting power mid-run, splitting into shorter segments, or using 24V instead of 12V.
Need a second pair of eyes on a spec?
Send us the project — we'll review CRI, CCT, IP, profiles and power sizing before you commit.